Dutch 1/10th 200mm nationals, Rd1

Hi Foks,

Last weekend was the first dutch national 200mm race on the REAL80 track in groningen. You might have all seen the result on redrc.net, i made the picture and provided the result :-)

Well the first alinia all sounds very good for the Xray NT1, the weekend was fun and i felt good about it, the result however, well, that’s nothing to blog about… I was last :(

Normaly this happens when you have some failure or your car brakes down, but the NT1 was fine the hole weekend. I was having a hard time getting a good setup on that (very bumpy) track. The qualifies went oke, i was on my ‘normal’ pase. Then came the half final where i stared from 4th place. Before the half final started i got on the track and my engine was fast right when it’s cold. With the R&B v12 it sometimes means you’re too lean with the main neadle, so i came in and had my pitmonkey richen it. Looking back to the final that was not a good idea. The engine stalled twice (probably just because it was flooded) and the engine wasn’t as fast as it was (acceleration was bad). I still had a car that wasn’t as easy to drive so i had to be carefull. All in all i did 44 laps in 15 minutes, that’s not too bad, but it was the slowest that day, the others simple didn’t have any failures and had a good run.

All in all i wasn’t happy about the result, but i was happy about how it all went. In the end the car did feal good and i didn’t have any weird failures. The car is very consistant and i basicly need to know how to set it up to make it more easy to drive for me.

I’m not saying i’ll be the fastest, but there’s definitly room for improvement :)

Let’s see how the EC-B in Belgium goes!

Building the NT1 (part 1)

Hi,

So here’s the first response to me driving and building the NT1. I’m not writing a full building report about it. But i will list some tips and likes/dislikes…

I got the kit on friday, while i say kit, it was basically a bag of parts. This is because i received it earlier and there’s not real kit yet. This also meant i didn’t have a manual but only exploded views. That proved to be an exiting thing to use when building :)

I started off with the differentials. The differentials are very small in size so they can be fitted lower on the chassis which makes the center of grafity lower. This has a result to the diff viscocity being used, since the gears are smaller. The front diff has a insert so you can make it a solid axle. There are no bearings to fit the outdrivers, at first (being a 720 driver) i was sceptical about it. But the fitting of the outdrives is good and they seal up very well, no leaking at the outdrives. This also is because there’s a rubber ring on the inside of the diff that’s covered by a big washer that closes things off.

I did have some difficulties with closing the diff, as you can see on the pictures there’s a very thin rubber ring to seal the diff. I didn’t pay attention the first time and damaged the rubber ring, can’t use that anymore. Another thing is the small screws to thighten the pulley, i received a american size so i got lucky with my hex drivers from the CRC 1/12th car.

The front diff is (as i understand) the same as the Kyosho diff, you first close the diff and then screw on the pulley. The rear diff just consists of two parts that fit together.

So, to conclude the diff building:

• The diffs are very small, but still very easy to build (not too small!)
• I dislike the rubber seal
• I like the way the outdrives fit into case, love the big washer that closes up the diff from the inside