New R&B V12 Rody – Roar legal

This weekend i’ve been buzy running in my new R&B V12 Rody – Roar Legal.

I’ve picked it up at the shop on wednesday and let the engine run it’s first tank on friday evening. That all went fine. Saterday was run-in day and i started the engine like normal. After another tank on the starter box i shut down the engine and turned the flywheel to put the cilinder in the lowest position. While doing that i noticed a ‘grind’. Feeling it more revield that my bearings where already damaged. This was nothing that i would expect from an R&B engine, and so we opened it, too see a mess inside. I don’t know what happend but it seems like oil was burned inside the engine and damaged it because it got thick. So damaging the bearings but also leaving lot’s of stuff on the crankshaft, on the cilinder and inside the cilinder.

I then called the shop and whent there just to receive a new engine that we ran inside the shop for the first two tanks. I ran in that engine on sunday and it works fine! I’m still hoping to hear what went wrong with the first engine, but i don’t believe it’s an error of the R&B production line. Maybe the oil that is used to protect the engine while it’s packed didn’t come loose right away? Maybe the oil in my fual wasn’t good. I hope to still hear from my shop about that.

What i do want to say is that the shop (2brothers RC) helped me on a saterday when it was quite buzy. They provided a new engine and spend lots of time starting that one up for the first time. Just to check if everything was ok for me and so i could have a good engine for the EC-B. I am really impressed by the service i received from them and i’m impressed by the R&B engine itself. It fast and it’s quite easy to tune. Running it in was also easy and i feel very confident with it on the track!

Dutch 1/10th 200mm nationals, Rd1

Hi Foks,

Last weekend was the first dutch national 200mm race on the REAL80 track in groningen. You might have all seen the result on redrc.net, i made the picture and provided the result :-)

Well the first alinia all sounds very good for the Xray NT1, the weekend was fun and i felt good about it, the result however, well, that’s nothing to blog about… I was last :(

Normaly this happens when you have some failure or your car brakes down, but the NT1 was fine the hole weekend. I was having a hard time getting a good setup on that (very bumpy) track. The qualifies went oke, i was on my ‘normal’ pase. Then came the half final where i stared from 4th place. Before the half final started i got on the track and my engine was fast right when it’s cold. With the R&B v12 it sometimes means you’re too lean with the main neadle, so i came in and had my pitmonkey richen it. Looking back to the final that was not a good idea. The engine stalled twice (probably just because it was flooded) and the engine wasn’t as fast as it was (acceleration was bad). I still had a car that wasn’t as easy to drive so i had to be carefull. All in all i did 44 laps in 15 minutes, that’s not too bad, but it was the slowest that day, the others simple didn’t have any failures and had a good run.

All in all i wasn’t happy about the result, but i was happy about how it all went. In the end the car did feal good and i didn’t have any weird failures. The car is very consistant and i basicly need to know how to set it up to make it more easy to drive for me.

I’m not saying i’ll be the fastest, but there’s definitly room for improvement :)

Let’s see how the EC-B in Belgium goes!

Building the NT1 (part 1)

Hi,

So here’s the first response to me driving and building the NT1. I’m not writing a full building report about it. But i will list some tips and likes/dislikes…

I got the kit on friday, while i say kit, it was basically a bag of parts. This is because i received it earlier and there’s not real kit yet. This also meant i didn’t have a manual but only exploded views. That proved to be an exiting thing to use when building :)

I started off with the differentials. The differentials are very small in size so they can be fitted lower on the chassis which makes the center of grafity lower. This has a result to the diff viscocity being used, since the gears are smaller. The front diff has a insert so you can make it a solid axle. There are no bearings to fit the outdrivers, at first (being a 720 driver) i was sceptical about it. But the fitting of the outdrives is good and they seal up very well, no leaking at the outdrives. This also is because there’s a rubber ring on the inside of the diff that’s covered by a big washer that closes things off.

I did have some difficulties with closing the diff, as you can see on the pictures there’s a very thin rubber ring to seal the diff. I didn’t pay attention the first time and damaged the rubber ring, can’t use that anymore. Another thing is the small screws to thighten the pulley, i received a american size so i got lucky with my hex drivers from the CRC 1/12th car.

The front diff is (as i understand) the same as the Kyosho diff, you first close the diff and then screw on the pulley. The rear diff just consists of two parts that fit together.

So, to conclude the diff building:

• The diffs are very small, but still very easy to build (not too small!)
• I dislike the rubber seal
• I like the way the outdrives fit into case, love the big washer that closes up the diff from the inside